Thursday, June 5, 2008

Chasing The Cheese

















The rain is lashing down as I arrive at Birmingham international airport and once again I am to meet my mate Terry, or at least that’s the plan. When I stride into arrivals he is nowhere to be seen and after fifteen minutes of trawling up and down I ring his mobile phone. His girlfriend Pat answers the phone, although they have been together for years, we have actually never met, but she seems very nice and explains that he’d set off some time earlier and really should be there by now. I’m just relieved that he has set off at all to be honest, we haven’t spoken since Hallaton and you’re never really sure if the text messages are getting through.
After about half an hour he peers round the very door where I’m sat reading the paper, “Hello boy!, I’ve been here about an hour – just couldn’t find anywhere to park. I was in a big long line of traffic and thought I’d head for the multi storey carpark. Anyway I gets to the front of the queue – eventually, and it says maximum height two metres, and the van’s two metres and two centre metres – what a bastard!, can you believe it!, there was hell on behind me I can tell you”.
He once again produces the “fool proof” sheets of paper printed from the internet, that give detailed directions of exactly where to turn off, for how long and what your journey time should be. A quick glance at the top of sheet one says 53 minutes and some seconds. This is important to me as Leeds United are playing in a hugely important game today that kicks off at 3 o’clock and I’d rather like to see it, it’s now 1:30pm so we’ve got a chance.
It’s the play-off final, which, if we win it decrees that next season we will be playing in the heady heights of the second tier of English football. I say second tier because it’s actually called The Championship, and the top division is called The Premier league, as apposed to The First Division, the league we’re in now, although it’s actually the third division. Try explaining that to a meek faced girlfriend who thinks you’re a little bit tapped to start with. Which I did by the way, but as I babbled on over my charts and set of compasses, I trod on my calculator and dropped my slide rule to the floor. “It’s a very important game anyway”, I concluded.

Along with directions there’s a tiny little map with a big red arrow where the camp site is situated. “Once we get on this road here, we can’t go wrong I reckon”. I blink at the piece of paper rapidly hoping to make the print larger. “My eyes aren’t what they used to be Tel, think I’m getting to the stage where I need glasses”.
“Aye, me an all, but I’m pretty good close up, it’s distances where I struggle”. At this he briefly flips open the glove compartment to reveal a pair of spectacles – which he obviously never uses. “We should be alright between us though, think we’ll crack it if I take the map and you take the road signs – no problem boy”. At this we chug round the car park several times searching for the exit.

We pick our way through the teeming rain and on to the road, you know, the one which once on, “we can’t go wrong”. This signals a lighter atmosphere and excited chatter as we discuss the forthcoming knees up and the test match (which isn’t going well). Despite the weather and the cricket we were both in a good mood, whatever happened we were going to have a good drink with it, and we’d booked into the camp site for two nights having felt a bit cheated in Hallaton only staying the one.
After a little over an hour we still hadn’t seen any signs for Cheltenham, kick off time was approaching and we weren’t. We peered through the gloom looking for clues and drew a collective breath when we saw the sign for Milton Keynes. “Hang on, that’s London way isn’t it”. Even my lousy geography knew this to be true. “Jesus!, what the hell we doing down here boy!?”.
We pulled into the motorway services for a re appraisal of the situation and a coffee, a quick check of my watch confirmed that I was not to be watching football on this day. I bought a road map and Terry sloped off to the café.
“Can’t believe that, just asked for two coffees and she charged me £5:60! – for two coffees!, I said to her, no! – just two ordinary coffees, the smallest and cheapest you’ve got!.”.
“Did you sort it then?”,
“Not really, it still came to £4:80! – for two coffees, I mean, what the f…., told her she should be ashamed of herself, still, it’s not her fault. - I suppose.”. We turned our attention to the map.
Terry prodded a finger at the offending page, “Arhh, there you are you see, we were on the right road, - just set off in the wrong direction, and now we’re bloody miles away”. I nodded in agreement.
So off we went again, only narrowly avoiding doing exactly the same thing once more. We rolled up to Briarfields campsite just as Leeds United were throwing the towel in against the mighty Doncaster Rovers and I sat there fuming catching the last bit of radio commentary. Terry went to square things with reception. It was now nearly 5 o’clock now and the journey had taken us four and a half hours. What happened to 53 minutes and some seconds?.

It was still raining as we put up the tent, a very small but adequate two man affair which surprisingly turned out to be up to the job considering the buffeting it received. We decided to head into Brockworth and check out the lay of the land for the cheese rolling, we flew round several roundabouts, a couple of dual carriageways and went in the wrong direction twice. We eventually stumbled upon a huge pub called The Cross Hands, popped in for a pint of Guinness and inquired what the crack was for tomorrow. The barman confirmed that Coopers Hill, was indeed just a mile or so up the road and we could park the van there in the car park for a fiver. This sounded pretty good to us, and we did a quick recce to see if we could actually find this hill and save us a bit of heartache the day after.
We drove up a narrow mountain path – for this was no road - for about ten minutes before we surmised that we’d either missed it or come up the wrong road, - which was the more likely to be honest. As we turned the van round in tiny increments we realised that we had picked the exact spot to turn round where Coopers Hill was hidden away, carved out of thick woodland. We both laughed out loud “That must be it there!!”. The temporary bright orange plastic fencing erected at the perimeter of this monster gave the game away. “Good God – look at that!!, I gasped. The photos and video footage I had seen on my computer didn’t really do this thing justice. Terry stopped the van to take a closer look and craned his neck for a better view. He had a vested interest after all, I had come as an innocent observer, take a few snaps and soak up the atmosphere, Terry had come to lay his life on the line as usual. In fact our little partnership was starting to resemble that of Blue peter some decades earlier, Terry as the intrepid John Noakes, throwing himself out of aeroplanes and hurling himself down the Cresta Run on his bare arse, and me as the sedentary Peter Purvis, doing the commentary from the warmth of the studio, sat next to Valerie Singleton whilst patting the dog (Petra I think it’s name was).

There didn’t seem to be a pub, or a shop come to that anywhere near the campsite, and so we decided the best policy was to get a bus into Cheltenham. This, even though we had not the slightest idea which way it was, so we weren’t sure which side of the road to stand on, but when we saw a bus shelter we headed for it anyway as it was still raining. luckily for us there was a young student in it and we cross examined him as to the best watering holes in town. He cheerfully told us of a number of pubs where we could get the cheapest pints of lager and the spots with the best value for money pool tables and best nubile young fillies, I think that we were secretly pleased that he was over looking the fact that we weren’t sixteen years old.

Having been advised by our new friend to get off the bus “when everybody else does”, this we did and rolled into the familiar Irish theme pub O’Neills, we were on old ground here and we gleefully re acquainted ourselves with an old friend – Caffreys bitter.
It looked pretty much like every other Irish theme pub I’d ever been in with its “oldey worldy” wooden alcoves, which I’ve always found hugely appealing, fake aged bare plaster walls and the usual array of Victorian looking clocks and pre war price lists and Oxo tins. I’m all for this kind of ambience and we consumed several pints as I sat back and just savoured the smooth bitter and another animated story as told by my old friend in that special, re-enact every movement, style that is all his own. I was beginning to relax.
We were just thinking that it was pointless arriving at a new town and staying in the same pub all night when the musicians arrived. This man and wife team were surely products of the folk scene of the late sixties and early seventies. We ordered another pint on the strength of these two, for they looked right up our street.
We were sat round the corner, and when we reached the dregs of another relaxing quart and “the band” still hadn’t struck up. I remarked that it was a shame that they weren’t showing much inclination to show us what they could do, when right on cue we heard the distinct twang of an acoustic guitar being primed for action. At this we moved round the corner and ordered another.
They were actually quite passable but seemed totally oblivious to the audience such as it was, mind you, not as oblivious as the audience were to them. Our be-sweatered singer friend sang, albeit quite pleasantly with his eyes tight shut and his missus sat on a stool facing the wall. We were both fascinated at the resemblance of the couple to the characters the Modern Parents from the adult comic The Viz. Him with his aluminium pan scrubber beard and chunky woollen jumper, and her with the long flowing ankle length skirt, round spectacles perched on a turned up toffee nose and her straight black hair scraped back into a pony tail. I had originally planned to visit Stone Henge on the summer solstice this summer, and could just imagine bumping into these two dancing naked round a joss stick with their hands in the air and trying to flog me a precious stone and aromatic oils. I’ve aborted that trip by the way, basically because it’s impossible to get there by public transport, and I didn’t fancy trekking through miles of desolate moor in the pitch black, - especially with my sense of direction, - would probably end up in Milton Keynes – again.
We eventually called time on this when Cressida, I think that was her name, produced a violin or a fiddle, - what’s the difference?, and very mechanically drew the bow over the strings. The resultant sound was something akin to a child sawing through a length of copper pipe with a rusty old wood saw. It was time to explore the rest of the town of Cheltenham. We went to the pub next door.
We quickly realised we had made a mistake here, this was like one of those student bars that our young friend had been describing earlier, everything was chrome, the beer pumps, the bar and tables, and probably even the urinals, it seemed to be men only and the average age was fourteen and a half. We stood in the corner like a couple of under cover drug squad detectives, heaved down our watery drinks, and trotted back next door. Here we stayed until we were politely kicked out at round about midnight, amidst much chatter and merriment and a million ideas for future exploits. The big favourite was to cycle on a tandem from the Lake District across the country via the Yorkshire dales, across the North York moors and landing in Whitby whilst listening to ashes cricket on the radio. All this dressed as W.G Grace. “The five day test”, we’re going to call it. Don’t rule it out!.

We had a little trouble relaying to the taxi driver where it was we wanted to go, mainly because we didn’t really know ourselves. We asked where we might be able to get something to eat, as we’d not had a bite for hours. He suggested the K.F.C all night drive through, we had heard of such places in America but wasn’t aware that we had such establishments over here, and neither of us had actually been to one. We approached the little speaker on a pole with some curiosity, there was a car there and the driver was placing his order as we watched and learned. When he pulled off round the corner Terry moved forward hand deep in his pockets, leant over and somewhat suspiciously shouted “Hello!”. He then turned to me and inquired, “What we havin boy?”.
“Well, I don’t really know, what they got?, we haven’t got a menu have we?”.
He once more cleared his throat and squawked, “Er, could we have a couple of burgers and a bag of chips a piece – er, thank you”.
I think the “er thank you” bit was in a desperate effort to elicit a response as we’d not heard a sausage as way of a reply up to now. After a couple of rough taps and another bellowing of “hello” and “one two, one two”, it was clear that either the intercom system had fallen into disrepair or we were being roundly ignored. Terry turns to me. “Maybe you have to have a car, that’s all I can think”.
“Yes, but how do they know?!”
“I dunno but we’ll go round the front and sort it”. We loped off round the corner where the bloke in the Vauxhall Corsa who we’d just seen was now at the kiosk picking up his substantial order. Instead of storming straight up to the front as I’d expected, my pal stood dutifully and bolt upright behind the car in front. What made this look even more comical was that the four wheel drive vehicle which had now showed up was waiting patiently behind Terry in the queue. As the Corsa in front edged up, so too Terry shuffled forward, with the car behind edging up to him. The sight of this spectacle with my friend absolutely dead pan coupled with shenanigans of what had gone before with the tannoy system suddenly hit me and I jack-knifed forward with one of those “Muttley” type laughs that you tend to do when you’re trying to stifle a big guffaw.
Still worried that you had to have a vehicle to get service Terry stuck his head through the hatch and pleaded, “You won’t believe this, but my car’s just broken down round the corner round here – and ……er…”. This set me off again. He ordered three burgers (two for him and one for me) and two bags of chips and was appalled when told it came to about £8:50.
“How much you got on you boy?”,as I handed over a fiver we were aware of a certain amount of consternation emanating from the kiosk. “This is wrong money” came a muffled voice through the re enforced plastic. “What?”, their English wasn’t the best, then again neither was ours at that stage.
“How do you mean wrong money!?, you said £8:50, - no”, Terry wasn’t seeing the funny side of any of this.
“Yes, but this is wrong money”. And with that he handed back the five euro note that I had inadvertently handed over in the dark. The trouble with going camping is that you feel obliged to take all your money and valuables out with you when you go out. I usually designate one pocket for English and one pocket for Spanish money, but this method had long been forgotten at this stage. We replaced the erroneous currency, sorted the order and Terry high tailed off towards the corner of the building. “Where you going now?” I shouted after him. “Eh?, - well, you just order it from here and pick it up from round the corner don’t you?.
“What you on about?, you ordered it from round the corner didn’t you?, - or tried to, you pick it up from here!”. The poor lad had obviously totally lost his bearings during this farcical little encounter.
Eventually our order was handed to us and we sauntered off, Terry dipped his hand into the greasy bag and pulled out a handful of lettuce and mayonnaise. “Hang on, this doesn’t work does it!”. Further inspection revealed just half of a bread bun inside, which explained why the contents of the burger had made a break for it. “What the hell!….”. He marches back once more into the fray, as I stand my ground.
I couldn’t make out the conversation exactly, but by the sound of things they obviously thought he had scoffed half of the bread bun and was trying to pull a fast one because he was starving. It was only when he handed over the remaining two burgers and they revealed a similar affliction, that the head chef in there turned to his right hand man, shoved the evidence under his nose and administered a Basil Fawlty type bollocking.
We were replenished and sent on our way. As we meandered the short distance toward the campsite my hungry friend mused on the unusual oversight. “I mean, how the hell can they get that wrong?, their training programme’s must be a joke that’s all I can say, all they’ve got to do is say “here, pick this bread up, slap this lot inside of it, and slap another bit of bread on the top, wop it in this bag and there you go”, but they didn’t even do that obviously!. He must have been doing the same all night for Christ sake!, and we were the only ones to complain, because the rest of em were halfway to Gloucester before they realised they’d been seen off!. –Don’t they have Kentucky fried chicken where they come from?, - I mean they even have em in Kosovo now for God's sake!”.
I was so hungry that I snaffled my chicken burger, and had hurled down the stone cold chips in one gulp and had now started on the cardboard container, - there was no discernable difference in taste. As we turned left to the campsite entrance we couldn’t help but notice that it wasn’t where we’d left it. We did a double take and quickly realised we had come down the wrong road. We laughed out loud at our feeble sense of direction which had reared it’s ugly head once more, set off back, echoed our way under the subway and promptly went the wrong way again. This was rather impressive even for us, taking almost half an hour to negotiate the two hundred yards from the K.F.C. to Briarfields campsite and caravan park.

The sleeping arrangements had worried me a little, fair enough it was a two man tent but Terry’s one and a half men. I do actually own a sleeping bag but it’s not much use in my folks’s loft, and I had embarrassed myself somewhat last year when purchasing it. We were heading off to a lads weekend camping trip in Derbyshire’s Peak District and having froze half to death the previous year (in August!), I’d decided to purchase a top of the range thing complete with a hood and duck down and the like. I didn’t have a clue about how much I’d have to pay for one of these as I set off to my hometown of Otley to a sizeable camping shop they’ve got round the back of the garden centre there.
The young lad led me to a long line of sleeping bags and talked me through them. I fingered the material and nodded my head knowingly as he pointed out the virtues of each of them. “This one here is the blue mountain synthetic – that’s 250”. I inwardly recoiled in horror, I only had about a hundred pounds on me, he continued. “And this one here, a double layer freedom, a very warm bag – 300. I puffed out my cheeks and said something along the lines of that they were very impressive and all that but did he have anything cheaper. He gave me a leer and explained that if I was serious about keeping warm then I’d struggle to get anything cheaper than twenty quid. “What!??”. I raised my eye line about six inches to see a great big sign which read £19:99. The 250 and 300 were serial numbers of some sort, he’d obviously said that’s the 250 and that’s the 300, but I’d misheard him.
Terry had borrowed some gear for me, he had a blow up mattress and I had a blue mat, but, surprisingly even as a notorious light sleeper I nodded off remarkably quickly. I don’t know how I’d have managed without my ear plugs and stone cold sober though.

We awoke early next morning to the welcoming sound of “rat a tat tat” on canvas, the rain was to be a constant companion on this trip, but the tent had withstood the precipitation and gusting wind admirably through the night and we were thankfully dry. We had both had to take our ease through the night which can be troublesome when you have to punch in a six digit security number – and two letters!, into little silver control panel thing on the toilet door. This, having to be achieved half asleep, and in the pitch black and with eyes that focus at different speeds.
The first time I’d tackled it, at about 3am, I’d become a trifle agitated after about the fourth or fifth time of scrutinizing the numbers on the tiny piece of paper and then turning the knob (in the wrong direction as it turns out), and getting nowhere. I think I was punching in the ladies toilets number in at first, and it was with huge relief when I finally cracked the code, mercifully sparing the nearby hedgerow.
There was nowhere to eat in the immediate vicinity, that much we knew for certain, and so it was into the trusty old van, tootling off and trying to remember which way we’d gone to give us a fighting chance of getting back again. After a short distance we came across a substantial sized eatery at the side of the main road, a sort of giant Little Chef looking thing from the outside and like a nightclub from the inside.
We waltzed in there rubbing our hands together as once more we were on the other side of peckish. We stood at the sign which said “Please wait here to be seated”, and was asked by a pleasant young girl what our room number was. “Er, what!?”. It transpired that the residents from the hotel next door breakfasted here for some reason, and we were then asked if we’d like a full cooked breakfast, Terry brushed passed her and said “Well, we’ll see what else you’ve got first shall we”.
It was a serve yourself buffet job, either continental or English style fry up, and we opted for the healthy option. As far as we could fathom you paid one fixed price and then could eat as much as you liked, so we stood in the queue for fruit salad and cereal. The serving spoons were designed such that you could just about fit a couple of raisins in them or per chance an under nourished grape, and they were obviously banking on you being too embarrassed to use your fingers, but we were hungry. We went back to our table only to find only knives and forks, tricky when your eating muesli, so off goes Terry to inflict his diplomatic skills once more.
He couldn’t find a waitress anywhere to hand and so collared one of the kitchen staff, a young lad in his early twenties. “You got a spoon mate?”. It didn’t seem to register. “We need a couple of spoons to eat our breakfasts, there’s only knives and forks on the tables”. After several seconds of hard thinking and eventual realisation, the young man came back with two spoons, - two tea spoons.
“Oh, here we go, no, I need two desert spoons!”.
“You eat desert?”. Terry peered beyond the baffled youth into the kitchen and shouted,
“No, we just need two desert spoons, to eat our cereal, you know”. He obviously didn’t know. At this point Terry barged passed him, grabbed a couple of spoons he’d seen laying by the sink, quickly washed them, dried them and returned to the breakfast table shaking his head.
Soon after a nervous looking waitress asked us if we wanted to order a cooked breakfast, when we said no she looked surprised and scuttled off never to be seen again. When we returned to the buffet for a yoghurt and more fruit salad we were met by a commotion at the toast machine. Several people were peering inside of it saying, “Our bread is stuck in there, I think it’s set on fire!”. At this somebody pulled the plug out of the socket before we had a full blown emergency on our hands, while the staff looked on thinking “Why didn’t I think of that?”.
We had quite a job on trying to get them to take our money, it would have been the easiest thing in the world to simply walk out of there, but we we’re thinking of coming back next morning so eventually managed to find the only English speaking member of staff and settled up.

As agreed we headed for the Cross Hands pub car park and was ushered in by a poor unfortunate young girl employee who’d drawn the short straw and stood in the middle of the road directing the traffic looking dishevelled in her rain soaked bellowing ill fitting pack-a-mac. It was now around 10:30, and as the cheese rolling started at midday we figured we had time for a warm drink in the pub. The five pounds we paid for the car park also entitled us to free breakfast as it turned out, so we missed a trick there as we were unable to take advantage, full up as we were with yoghurt, muesli and plastic tasting coffee. As Terry observed the coal black skies and weather of the most foul through the window, - the wind had now got up and was whipping the rain into evil little patterns, he had an idea.
He realised that he had some waterproofs in the van, the very sturdy type that he used when working on top of rain lashed roofs no doubt. They were those day glow yellow jobs with those little grey hoops round the shin, whatever they’re for. He was certainly difficult to miss and he looked for all the world like one of the emergency services as we set off on the slow walk towards the hill.

By the time we’d reached the base camp my trousers were stuck to my thighs, my boots were thick with slimy mud and I eyed Terry’s apparel with rampant jealousy as another trickle ran down my back, proving once more that my cagoule was no match for a summers day in down town Gloucester. Terry had forged ahead of me, whilst I had stopped momentarily to eye a makeshift bookstall, and he was a large luminous blur as he scaled the woodland to the top of the hill. I followed with slightly less haste, and picked my way methodically grabbing at low lying branches, large rocks and the odd human leg or two. This was a real effort and it was with some relief when I suddenly glimpsed daylight, and straightened up as I approached the summit wiping my caked palms on the lush grass. The view was probably not as spectacular as it would have been on a balmy sunny day, but it was still bloody high up and plenty impressive enough.
My friend had been there some minutes and was already fed up with everybody mistaking him for a steward. After originally re directing them to the real race officials, he soon tired of this and grew into the role. “Excuse me mate, where do you register if you want to take part?”, breathlessly inquired one such.
“Arh, well it’s by that table at the bottom of the hill there”
“What!?, somebody just sent me up here!”.
“Sorry about that pal, you might just make it if you set off now.”
The crowd here at the brow of the hill was substantial, all these idiots were willing participants rather than spectators like myself, and most of them were woefully inadequately protected against the elements. An alarming number were bare footed, and wearing flimsy T-shirts or in fancy dress and many clutching tins of lager. I spotted a Batman, Superman, a bloke dressed as a pig and the Archbishop of Canterbury.
I quickly decided that to get any decent footage I would have to try and find a spot about halfway down the hill, this I did and I felt the damp penetrate through to my buttocks as I perched on a sod of grass with my knees trussed up under my chin. I did this because it was proving almost impossible to stand up. The stress incurred in the ankles as you try and maintain your balance on a 45 degree skid pan shouldn’t be under estimated and withered souls were either holding on to the fence poles or on to each other with screwed up eyes and blue cheeks.
Once again, as in Hallaton we seemed to be the only people from the north of England here, but unlike “The Bottle Kicking”, where the crowds were almost exclusively young locals, here there seemed to be as many Aussies and Kiwi accents as English. Immediately in front of me were a group of young Japanese girls, some of whom had retreated to the woods and to the shelter of the trees, and all of whom looked extremely pissed off. It became abundantly clear why. The young local lad who was obviously responsible for bringing them here, presumably to show them what your average Brit gets up to on a bank holiday Monday, told me they had in fact been there since 9:30 in the morning so as to get a good spot!. It was now 11:45 and the little waif in front of me through chattering teeth and in squeaky pidgin English very sweetly declared to their over cautious guide that actually she couldn’t feel her feet any more, she was extremely wet and was possibly about to pass out.
“Yes but Takinata (or whatever her name was), we’ve waited all this time, you can’t go now it starts in ten minutes!”.
“I can watch it on the television tomorrow” was her reasoned response.
In the end she waited for the first race and then gave up the will to live.
To be honest, most of us were struggling by now and we were all longing for something to start happening soon, and it was with intense relief when who we took to be the master of ceremonies appeared in a long white coat, black top hat with coloured ribbon round it and what looked to be a red rose clipped to his lapel, oh, and a beard as well, (though it’s probably true to say that this wasn’t part of the uniform). He also waved around a stick, and when the first competitors appeared at the brow of the hill they were met with a cheer and a sigh of relief they probably heard in Tewkesbury. I fired my camera up as a chant of “Cheese, cheese, cheese!!”, went up, I momentarily lowered my camera again and quipped, “thanks all the same, but it didn’t work, - nobody smiled up there”. Think it’s true to say it didn’t exactly bring the house down.

About a dozen young men with their “game faces” on braced themselves, gingerly placed one foot in front of the other, steadied themselves against the howling gale and the master of ceremonies raised his stick. There’s another chap who’s cradling the cheese complete with blue and red ribbons sat in a little fishing chair. “One to be steady, two to be ready, three to prepare, and four to be off!!”. The cheese is released and off they went, these looked like seasoned campaigners as they shot past me at about 50 mph a mass of flailing arms and piston action legs, occasionally bouncing, as well as full 360 degree tumbling, they were roared on by an appreciative crowd. The winner of this race, a young lad in what looked like cycling gear flew over the finish line and landed on his head to much oooing and aaaarhing. There was obvious concern for him being shown by the medical team as they carefully slid a neck brace on him and on to a stretcher. This must have taken a full 20 minutes and there was a big cheer as he was loaded into the ambulance, thankfully he was given the all clear at the hospital and returned later proudly clutching his winning 8oz Gloucester.

Due to exaggerated reports of injuries in the press in 1998 the landowners got a bit jittery about public liability and this was part of the reason that the event was cancelled on this particular year – outrageous!. This event has been going for hundreds of years, indeed like many of this type, nobody really knows just when and how it started. My research revealed that it could have started by the Phoenicans (whoever they were), the ancient Britains or the Romans. Many think it could have evolved from early fertility rites and hopes for a successful harvest or to safeguard the “commoners” rights of the inhabitants of the hill.
Apart from 1998, the event has been cancelled twice more in recent years, in 2001 the foot and mouth scare, which led to the closure of the countryside accounted for one, and then once again in 2003. By this time the committee had recruited the services of a search and rescue team to assist by treating any possible casualties at the top of the hill. This was because the Saint Johns Ambulance no longer felt they could make it to the top of the hill should they need to, - presumably because they’re all about 70. However, there was an earthquake in Algeria which needed the help of the search and rescue team, and because of this, the Saint Johns Ambulance team backed out – at three days notice, so it went kaput again.
Mind you, on each of these occasions a single, standard 8lb double Gloucester cheese has been rolled down the hill by the committee to maintain the tradition. Well done lads.

We watched several different category races, there was the women’s race, and let me tell you the winner would given the lad in the first race a good run for his cheese, and she finished upright. There were also races for the kids, going uphill though, several of whom got stranded halfway and cried for mummy as they were carted off by the cave rescue team who were positioned halfway up for such an eventuality. Down at the bottom of the hill, there are placed huge bails of hay, sandbags and what appeared to be a local rugby team employed to catch the human cannonballs as they hurtled towards them. There were also several film crews down there and a couple of celebrities of which we were unaware of at the time, Rory Mcgrath, the tubby bearded guy who used to be on They think it’s all over, and Paddy the doorman from Phoenix Nights. They competed in one of the early races and came last and second to last, not so respectively.
After about an hour of races I noticed there was just as much carnage going on the sidelines as there was on the “track”, blank looking wretches from all around me we literally finding it impossible to hang on anymore. Unless you’re sat down (which isn’t nice in six inches of mud), it’s physically challenging to stay upright on that kind of gradient in that kind of weather. Any grass that might have been there earlier on had long since disappeared, and the cold had rendered fingers and toes useless. A child of about ten was treated for hyperthermia just in front of me, the poor mite couldn’t get his legs to straighten and had to be escorted down on a sledge!. It was a bit like the scene in Titanic, whereby chilled bones decreed that grips were suddenly loosened and not being able to hang on anymore, were sent tumbling. Not, to the bottom of the ocean to an icy death in this case, but pretty unpleasant nevertheless scooting, eyebrows first, through some pretty unsavoury sludge, until you either came to rest at the bottom in a heap or if you were lucky, caught by one of the rescue teams. I had sniggered at their presence earlier, but I wasn’t now.

There was still no sign of my mate, but I felt sure I’d be able to pick him out alright once he appeared. As far as I know, nobody in the long history of this event has actually caught the cheese, which let’s face it, is the whole idea as far as I’m aware. But knowing Terry’s sheer belief and confidence he’s no doubt already caught the thing in his own mind, and has probably brought with him a huge family sized tub of Branson pickle to go with it for a celebratory sarney later.
After what seemed like several eternities, the large bright yellow thing came into view, ah ah!, - where’s my camera?!. I reached into my inside pocket but I couldn’t for the life of me feel anything. I knew it was in there though but my purple digits had just about given up the ghost and I feverishly pawed and nosed at the now located camera like a puppy trying to get the lid off the biscuit tin. I had to push the on switch with my chin, but try as I might I couldn’t get the thing to work. I’ve since discovered that they don’t make digital cameras waterproof.

I think I counted two steps that Terry took before being up ended by his own momentum and slid down for the vast majority of his journey on his back, at a far old speed though. The thick mud in centre field probably ensured some all time fast times on this day, and the looks on the faces of these latter competitors seemed to verify their exhilaration as they bounded along like they’d been shot from a cannon.
It was now time for me to descend, and I’d been dreading this moment for some time. I’d stood and watched as the underfoot conditions had become first treacherous and then impossible, there was simply no way you get any purchase and many had resorted to clambering over the fence and taken their chances on the track. Not always the safest route though when there’s the odd human missile coming your way. By a huge slice of luck, the nearby cave rescue boys, (or they could have been the mountain rescue, I wasn’t sure which was which), had tied a rope round a nearby tree to either pull yourself up, or lower yourself down. I was manhandled the twenty yards or so to the rope, but with hands flapping at the ends of my wrists like those mittens on string your mum used to make you, it was still a trial. As it happened I only went arse over apex just the once, and I trotted the last bit – like there was an option!, and on to level ground for the first time for about a week. Once again Terry’s resplendent waterproofs had proved invaluable in tracking him down, even though they were more brown than yellow now, it was just as well, as he had handed over his mobile phone to me for safe keeping and mine didn’t work anyway.
He looked unscathed as he greeted me with a broad grin and dirty face, he’d obviously enjoyed himself, and he began to tell of the tail from the top of the hill.
Of course it would have been colder still up there, and like me he’d marvelled at those clad only in shorts and not much else. They were up there for more than two hours with absolutely no shelter whatsoever, not being able to shelter in the trees even in case they lost their place in the queue and they huddled in lines just waiting to be called forward. As they braced themselves, head slightly bowed into the wind and arms slightly away from their bodies, they shuffled along trying to keep warm, like Emperor Penguins in the Arctic. (This at least is how Terry described it to me).
Apparently one Antipodean voice had remarked while surveying the silent suffering “Aussies, Kiwis, - Poms, - waiting to go over the top – it’s a bit like the Somme isn’t it?”

We now squelched our way down past the ice cream man, (who, I don’t think retired on the strength of his takings), and hands buried deep in our pockets we made our way down towards civilisation once more. We had come prepared and had brought with us a change of clothing, and opened up the back of the van like a wardrobe, rubbed our hands together and peered in. It was a lovely feeling to climb into nice clean dry clothes and as I lobbed my sodden garments into a cement bucket I had the feeling that it might have all been worthwhile after all. This feeling was reinforced I sat in the Cross Hands pub nursing a pint of Pedigree bitter, whilst, Al Jolson like, Terry who still hadn’t washed his face, demolished a pint of Guinness.
Once again there were as many Aussie and Kiwi accents in there, what is this?, don’t they have cheese rolling over there or something?. Of course this didn’t really bother us but I draw a line at the band which consisted of a bloke bashing on a tambourine and another puffing on didgeridoo!. It was monotonous tosh, they didn’t even sing, just kept droning on with the same relentless rhythm for about half an hour until someone had a word and they thankfully packed up.
Although it seemed pretty full to us, indeed, the toilets resembled the changing rooms at a rugby sevens tournament, the landlord was a bit disgruntled that the weather had kept the numbers well down. When we asked him about how to get a taxi into Cheltenham he mumbled something about some chap at the bar might know, and said he was going to shut early. We had tried the only other pub in the area round about tea time, it took half an hour to walk there and the only good thing about it was that they had a television and we caught the highlights of England’s marvellous recovery win against New Zealand, of which we were previously oblivious. We could have rubbed that one in the Cross Hands had we been in the know, and by the time we had returned there the place was almost empty. A helpful if slightly inebriated young girl from behind the bar phoned us a taxi on her mobile. She very politely asked them how soon they could get there and how much it would be. “He can be here in twenty minutes, and it will be about £20”, she relayed. I offered my opinion on the tariff, and mimicking my answer and my accent she replied to the taxi rank, “He says “foooooking hell!”. We didn’t have a choice really, the only pub in the area was shutting and there was bugger all at the campsite, so off to Cheltenham we went. In contrast to the night before the town was not surprisingly quiet on this bank holiday Monday night. The taxi driver obviously didn’t have a clue where O’Neills was, and dropped us off outside Yates’s.
We snuck in for a swift one and then asked a tramp if he knew the way. He seemed very confident as he replied, “Ah yes, just up here and first left”. This must be his stock answer to everything, and we gleefully handed over armfuls of loose change before setting off on our wild goose chase. When we eventually found it, via another stopping off point to ask for directions, they were getting ready to close, so all there was to do was order yet another taxi back to the campsite. “We’ve spent more on taxis than we have on sodding beer!”, was Terry’s furious observation.

Now clued up, we didn’t bother with the speaker system at the K.F.C, just went straight up to the window and ordered, although my pal couldn’t help himself saying once more “You won’t believe this, but me car’s just broken down…….”
We then followed a tradition that we have studiously followed for more than twenty years. After a particularly pleasing session on the drink we almost always go arm in arm at some point and wail Desperado by the Eagles at the tops of our voices. This went down particularly well with the camp commandant who cheerfully greeted us at the campsite gates, (he must have heard us approaching from the rear), and complemented us on our vocal prowess, and with the offer of alternative accommodation waved us on our way. What a nice man.
As a thank you, we dutifully nourished the bushes by our tent. Well, we had to actually as all our worldly goods including the code number for the toilet block were in the van, which was now miles away in the Cross Hands carpark. All our worldly goods included my trusty earplugs, so I had to run the gauntlet of my mate’s wheezing and the striking up for the umpteenth time of the sound of raindrops on canvas. Because of this it took me a while to nod off and I was still half asleep at about 8:30 next morning when Terry announced that he was going to get a bus and pick up his van.
I was mightily relieved to hear this as my lower abdomen was rumbling, and robbed of the cover of darkness I desperately needed that bloody code number. He returned an hour and a half later! (had to get two buses and had gone the wrong way about fourteen times driving back), by which time the inside of my knees were bald through constant rubbing together whilst writhing in the foetal position in my sleeping bag.

We forlornly packed away the tent into the back of the van and headed for the exit. Terry motioned toward the reception hut. “Best not pop in and say ta ra, when I passed earlier he slid down his hatch and glared at me”.
“Fair enough”.
When we first set out, we concluded that the weather was going to ruin our little jaunt, in fact it actually gave it that edge, made it more of a challenge and I don’t think we would have had it any other way in the end.

Terry dropped me off in Sheffield where I got the train back to Leeds and then on to Guiseley to visit the family. Since last I was here I have been made an uncle once again. A bit of a shock really, when my sister Karen said she had something to show me, I thought it might be a hi-tec kettle that you can turn on with your hearing aid or something – the brother-in-law is gadget mad. Either that or the Christmas present that she didn’t send because she didn’t trust the Spanish post, but no, it was a little pink bundle called Mia, she’s beautiful and I was particularly pleased to meet her.

On my way up there I popped into our local working men’s club to meet up with Eddie, my close buddy and uncle. Propping up the bar as usual was Fred Waters, another former Elderly Brother (the name of our “comedy” group in the 80’s). Fred has been suffering with serious liver problems (no surprise there then), and has several times been given the hard word by his doctors, but he looked in fine form as he stood there, his jolly round face lighting up the bit between the beer pumps and the fruit machine.
“You’re looking well Fred!”, I rallied enthusiastically.
Holding up his pint of Tetleys he replied.
“Aye, well, it’s since I’ve come off o’t medication and gone back on this stuff – marvellous”

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Big Tony makes the squad!!

Well, I'm all packed up and ready for my trip back home tomorrow to Gloucester for "The cheese rolling". Once again I'm meeting up with me old mucker Terry (and his van) at Birmingham airport. There's just a chance that we'll stop off on our journey south for a swift glass of cordial to watch the match - the once mighty Leeds United are in the play off final!.

Still on the football theme, or soccer, depending on which side of the pond you're on, one of our members, (yes, we have "members" in the Cumberland Bar where I work in the afternoons, about 450 of them, and each with a little laminated card to prove it), Tony informs us that he's made the squad for an over 45's European championships in Switzerland. This is to run along side the "real" Euro championships, for which, neither England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern and Republic of Ireland have qualified, - so you've got our undivided attention Tone!.

From what I can gather, these teams, somewhat strangely, are taken from Universities. So we can take it as read then, that all apart from the most "mature", - Students don't get a look in. This then, I presume leaves a selection of caretakers, cleaners, gardeners or in my friend's case, security man. Sitting on his big fat arse (Tony is about 6 feet 4 inches and about 19 stone), sat in front of a few TV screens whilst doing the crossword with a bag of chips wouldn't on the face of it be the ideal preparation for a football tournament, but somebody somewhere has found him and said "He'll do" apparently.
The first training session was held about six weeks ago, Big Tony confidently strode out, hared after the ball and did his groin with the first kick of the match, - he then twisted his knee walking off the pitch! - I'm not making this up. Think it's true to say that the big man is not a coiled spring of an athlete, and he was even struggling a bit when that game of mini golf went to an extra hole in Blackpool's Stanley Park last summer, - think he blamed his loss on cramp that time.
Anyway, he's got another training session before the competition kicks off, and I've asked him to keep me posted and per chance send me some photos.
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Saturday, May 17, 2008

ENGLAND BEACH SOCCER LATEST: THE WORLD CUP WILL HAVE TO MANAGE WITHOUT US!



Well. We were right to be wary of Portugal has it happens, they stuffed us 6-1. We could see the difference in the stature of the teams immediately, as they rolled up in the deluxe coach, these ex world cup winners looked altogether the slick professional sportsmen that they are, and it didn’t quite cut the cloth when England limped into town on a tandem and side car.
Despite the score line, we were not disgraced, indeed after the second period we were only 2-1 down and more than holding our own, but Portugal’s sheer class and superior fitness told in the end.
Nigel was suitably enough impressed to make moves to offer his bar up as Benidorm’s official England beach soccer HQ, he wanted to endorse them and to publicise the matches, after all, his work on local radio could be of good use to them. After several e-mails and a couple of phone calls to the chief organiser and manager Nigel invited them round to the bar for a chat and a cup of tea, the idea was that they’d bring some posters and T shirts and what have you. Despite him and Yvonne going to the trouble to put out the welcome mat, AND a few sarnies, and Nigel delaying a trip to Gibraltar to greet them, (the piddling little job on his car that the garage had managed to stretch from 24 hours to three days may have had a bearing on his decision as well, on that one),but they never showed bless em.
Through work commitments I could only make the final four minutes of their knockout game against the Ukraine the next day, (I still saw three goals), but a packed stadium was mute as we were routed 6-0 in a performance that the official website described as “abysmal”. We just couldn't get the ball off them by all accounts, they were obviously superior, but I can't agree with their goalkeeper sitting in that deck chair for the last ten minutes, rolling a fag and making sand castles with his feet. It's just so unprofessional.
Our standing in beach soccer was underlined the next day as the Ukraine were pummelled 8-3 by Italy. Couldn’t help but thinking that a couple of egg mayonnaise sandwiches and a sausage roll a piece could have made all the difference to their performance, but I guess we’ll never know.
Mind you compared to Spain and Italy and the like we are at a distinct disadvantage as far as practice goes I would imagine. Can just see the lads now, stood all windswept and piss wet through, freezing their nuts off on the sea front at Skegness or wherever it is they practice, having to clear the pitch of seaweed, green slime and the odd stray turd. I can just picture it.
“Come on lads, unbutton yer dufflecoats, and pull down yer balaclavas, we’ll just about get ten minutes before the tide comes in”.

Monday, May 12, 2008

England win football match on penalties sensation!.



I'm busy at the moment planning my next trip home, to Gloucester, for the cheese rolling, but in the meantime I've found another way to occupy my time.


Went down to the beach to support the England beach football team yesterday. It was a pretty well guarded secret of a competition I have to say, when they first started erecting scaffolding down there, word had it they were building some new state of the art sea defences, either that or there was a circus in town. It came as a bit of a shock then when it transpires that England football team are involved in international football after all this summer.
These matches are qualifiers for the world cup finals to be held later on in the year in Marseille and yesterday we were playing Estonia. The stadium they have erected is actually quite impressive and we had a decent view of proceedings high up on the gantry, level with the halfway line. Of course beach soccer isn’t a recent phenomenon, as far back as the early seventies Derby County were playing it in the old first division every other week, - The Baseball Ground they called it.
We seemed quite evenly matched with our eastern rivals, but managed to forge into a two goal lead due to a dubious penalty (it would later be apparent that all penalties in this form of football are dubious), and wonderfully constructed goal which was volleyed home by our best player “MC”. That’s the initials he had on his back anyway, and through a little bit of research, it turns out that his name is Gian Carlo Giancovich, though he looks a bit more of a Gonzales to me, but anyway, he qualifies for England and we’ll take him.
As the game wore on Estonia gradually wormed their way back into it, and by the final whistle they’d got it back to 2-2. We murmured that it probably wasn’t a bad result really as we stood up and prepared to leave, - but hang on, there was no hand shaking or bollocking of the referee, or any other obvious signs the game was over, maybe we were going into extra time?. With no explanation of the rules anywhere we had no idea what was going on, but immediately sat down when they kicked off again. The kick off consists of one bloke teeing the ball up for a team mate who blasts it goal wards only to see it sail into the goalkeepers chest or fly over the bar. The pitch is about a quarter of the size of a normal footy pitch but they play with full size goals, it’s five a side and the substitutions are constant stream of players coming on and off and it’s hard to keep track. The period of extra time came to an end, - would it now be penalties?, ah, no, they came out and started all over again, by this time both teams looked knackered, they were looking longingly at the scoreboard clock and were pleading with the referee to throw them into the sea. Eventually this extra, extra time finished and we did indeed have penalties, but even then we hadn’t a clue how many they had to take and as soon as the Estonians missed one, the England team (who bizarrely only wear one, instead of three lions on their shirts) celebrated wildly. So we had won! – on penalties at that!, the first time I could remember any England team doing such a thing since we beat Spain in “Euro 96”, - I was hooked, - “ENGER-LAND, ENGER-LAND, ENGER-LAND”.
After swatting up on the internet when I got home, it turns out that they play three periods of 15 minutes, you’re not allowed to have a draw, so if it’s level after that, it goes to a 3 minute period of “golden goal”, and if there’s no score after that, it’s penalties. So there you go, - you know as much as me now.
Today the game was against Georgia, so off I toddled down to the stadium, it was confirmed to me that England were playing in there, but was slightly surprised to see that the crowd was a bit sparse. I Watched the tail end of Gemany’s game, in which they scored a late winner and went berserk, and then waited for us to make an appearance. We didn’t. The two teams that appeared didn’t include England, and it turned out that our game had been brilliantly scheduled on the little toss-pot pitch next door. In Wimbledon speak, the pitch next door is like an outside court as apposed to the centre court next to it. The few seats available here had long been snapped up and the rest of us had to stand shoulder to shoulder peering through a wire fence, whilst next door the stadium hosted The Outer Hebrides versus The Peoples Republic of Nowhere In Particular. All this in front of a crowd that consisted of about half a dozen Englishmen who were obliviously watching the wrong match, a couple of immigrants selling roses and a bored looking Chihuahua.

To be honest our game wasn’t the greatest, and I wondered if, like me, the Georgian players had been on the internet checking out the rules of the game the day before, as they didn’t seem to know exactly what was what. They were built to last, rather than for speed, and were uncompromising in the tackle. There was a good atmosphere though, probably with us being crowded into such a small place and the volume went up steadily as we started scoring goals. A Georgian defender was felled with a volleyed cross that caught him square in the plums, and the trainer was cheered vigorously when he jogged on carrying nothing more than a bottle of water. He patted the prostate Georgian on the back, took a swig of the water, and ran trotted back to the touchline!. They don’t even have the “magic sponge” round these parts.
Probably the highlight would have to be one of the Georgians getting booked for dissent, at this, the crowd gave a huge ironic cheer, and when the seething midfielder then gave an obscene gesture toward the stand, he was sent off, to even louder cheers. We won 4-1, we’re on a roll, but we play Portugal tomorrow, and they’re shit hot apparently.

Saturday, May 3, 2008

"Hare pie scramble and bottle kicking" at Hallaton



SUNDAY 23rd MARCH
I arrive at East Midlands airport only about half an hour behind schedule. When the plane touches down it’s snowing, it suddenly dawns on me that I’ve not actually seen snow for God knows how many years, and for a second or two I’m captivated by the sight, as a small child would be.
Terry is waiting for me and he pumps my hand with a firm shake in arrivals, it’s the first time we’ve met since I headed back after my last summer hols last August and we catch up on what’s been going on in the interim.
At this point I’m feeling genuinely excited as we discuss which of the barmy
festivals that I’d earmarked as possible trips, we can actually make. I had in fact listed around twenty of these, but in reality will probably only manage about half. I had originally planned to travel alone, visualising tramping around with a chunky rucksack on my back and spending hours in draughty train stations and bus stops with nothing but Test match cricket on my portable radio for company. I figured that public transport in England would present a formidable strain to my inner strength, will to succeed, and my wallet as well no doubt, and anyway, I haven’t got a driving licence, so that’s that then. When I first muted this idea to friends and family it didn’t surprise me that Terry would be up for a couple of the bawdier ones, with his natural competitiveness and wanderlust, a few of these shindigs are right up his street.

Over the years, in his various ramshackle vans, we’ve managed to get lost on just about every trip we’ve ever undertaken together, but he’s come prepared this time. He produces one of those printouts that you can get off of the internet that gives you directions, literally from your door to your destination. It’s a journey of around 15 miles, and we only take the wrong turning a couple of times – a tremendous success rate.
Thinking back, some of Terry’s dilapidated vehicles have more closely resembled something out of Whacky Races than anything that should be allowed out on to a public highway. This latest, ten year old Renault Kango white van is luxurious indeed compared to some that I’ve seen. I full remember a 1980 yellow ex council Ford Escort van with a dodgy gearbox that he picked up at auction for £75, “no reverse, and occasional second gear if you’re lucky” – as was stipulated in the auction brochure, (he’d just been deported from Australia, so funds were at a minimum). He sold potatoes from out of the back of that at the side of the road for a year until he got the money together for a one way ticket to South Africa.
I recall him telling me that when he put it up for sale a gullible young man came round to look at it and wanted to take it for a test drive. Terry said he could drive it fifty yards to the end of the road and back, (he didn’t want to risk him getting in to second gear), and when the lad sat in the drivers seat and wound the window down, it fell out on to the road. As quick as a flash he said “Ah, that’s the only thing wrong with it!”. I think that might have been the same van whereby the windscreen wipers packed up during a storm coming back over the “Snake Pass” from a blind date debacle in Blackpool in the winter of 92. I hung out of the passengers window pumping away with a shammy leather, blindly wincing against the elements, struggling to breathe and biting on raindrops, my left hand turned blue and I lost the use of my lower jaw but we somehow made it home.
I’m not sure, but this could have been the same vehicle that he picked me up in when he was working in Torquay. I got in, and as I groped at the space where a seatbelt should be, he pulled up at some traffic lights and I was suddenly and brutally impaled to the windscreen by a six foot metal spike.
“Sorry about that mate, - it’s me latest venture, - pig on a spit”. The pub where he worked as a doorman had allowed him to barbecue a full grown swine, slice it up and shove it into a bread bun for a “pig bap”. One day he’d sell pork, and the next he’d sell chickens. Once, on my birthday, before we could go out on the drink we had to first do a “chicken run”, and decked out in my best shirt and strides I grappled with the stinking poultry loading it on to this special contraption whereby you could get about a dozen of the things revolving above the flames. It took ages, and as we stood in the deserted car park I took umbrage and sloped off for a pint. When I came back Terry asked me to think up a slogan for his blackboard to bolster the non existent sales, I scribbled something before sternly marching back into the pub. I’m not altogether sure that “Fancy a f***** chicken?” did a lot for business, in fact I know it didn’t because he never sold one of the pesky things all night and we returned home sober.
We spent a whole day spraying “Tel’s Pigs & Poultry” on the side of the van one Saturday afternoon, only to see half of the letters fall off with the first drops of rain. He spent the rest of the season advertising “Tel’s igs & Pou”.
As a foot note, I’d decided to wind him up by sending him a spoof letter pretending to be from the health and safety. It took me ages in that pre computer age, getting the officious dialogue just right and then getting mum to type it out at work. I’d got to the stage where I was trying to work out how to get a Torbay post stamp on it and was sat in my bedroom racking my brain, when the phone went. It was Terry. He only phoned me up once in a blue moon, and I thought something was up. I slumped disgruntled on to the foot of our stairs as he told me of his latest venture selling ice creams. He sounded hugely enthusiastic as he told me of his daily slog up and down the beach doing a roaring trade, totally illegal obviously, and when I asked him what happened to “Pigs & Poultry”, he says,
“Health and safety closed me down!”
The last vehicle before this latest one was a classic, a red 1988 Renault Extra, converted to a disabled vehicle with a dirty great big window in the roof and a wheelchair ramp. It had a cross of St. George painted onto the bonnet and he used the wheelchair ramp to ease in his cement mixer. He bought it off a farmer who’d been using it as a chicken coop and stacked hay on the roof rack, it was £200 and once he’d cleaned out the eggs and giblets and fixed up the back bumper with coat hangers it was as good as new. It was his pride and joy and a sad day indeed when it recently went up for sale on Ebay for 99p. It actually went for £230!, so, £30 profit don’t you know!
.
As we suddenly arrive in Hallaton, - a real blink and you’d miss it job, we immediately fall in love with the place. This is not difficult to do. Set amidst miles of rolling countryside with a very pleasing tiny village square complete with the ancient buttercross monument betwixt picturesque eye catching cottages and a charming 400 year old country Inn called The Bewicke Arms. All of these buildings have thatched roofs, transporting you back to another age and as Terry pulled up on the road side he sighed “Oh yesss!”. I knew what he meant. The sleet started up again as Terry uncurled himself out of his seat and toward the pub, we needed directions to the campsite as we’d failed to locate it first time round. He was chortling as he returned, apparently as soon as he’d walked in the place somebody had shouted, “He’s a big un, we’ll have him!”.

The campsite was just around the corner, but it was deserted. No campers, no staff anywhere about and no reception area either. We parked up on a lush piece of grass, a bit over lush as it turned out. We stepped out on to the turf and the water came to halfway up our boots, this could present a problem. We did a quick recce to see if we could find any signs of life of which there were none, so Terry phoned the contact number. He was then informed that we had been cancelled as the campsite was waterlogged, and they had telephoned us to let us know. This was a bare faced a lie. Rather than get into an argument, our ever helpful friend said the line was breaking up and his parting shot was,
“Whatever you do, don’t park on the grass!”.

We retired to the pub to discuss the next line of action, we would have a pint and mull over the possibilities from there. We inquired if they did bed and breakfast there and were told that they did indeed, but they were, not altogether surprisingly, full. However if we wanted to go and have a word with Carol in the tea rooms, she might have a place for us. She told us that she had accommodation, but she too was full, she however phoned another B and B and said that a friend of hers called Sally would put us up for the night in her place which was outside the village somewhere and gave us directions. We got lost. We called in on some farm or other which was the only life we came across in this green and laid back land, “Even the sheep don’t move” observed Terry.
We were greeted by a sign that warned, “Beware – our dogs bite”, and as we climbed out of the van a busy looking Collie regarded us with mild curiosity but didn’t savage us to death, or if it did, I didn’t notice it. The farmer knew of our Sally and cheerfully gave us directions and sent us on our way. I think we only took a couple of wrong turnings more before we arrived at Medbourne Grange Farmhouse in the delightfully named village of Nevill Holt.
The well spoken elderly lady answered the door,
“Alright luv, I’ll just get me gear”, said Terry. So much for formal introductions. She treated us with cautious geniality as she led us to our room. The stair wall was bedecked with several framed drawings of a cock fight, hung in sequence. First, the two birds staring each other down, then, a bit of flapping of wings and the odd displaced feather, and finally, one bird laid at the others feet with it’s throat torn out while the others beak dripped blood. This must be the family room I thought.
The room itself was pretty much what you’d expect, very clean, comfortable to plush with two beds and a couple of inviting burly looking duvets laid on top. I couldn’t help thinking that we were in for a damn sight more comfortable night than we would have had in that tent, or curled up in the foetal position in the front of the van, (it would have to have been the front as the back was full of power tools).
Our host then gave us our keys, one for the front door and one for the bathroom, (although there was a bolt on the inside), but not one for our door. When we asked why this was we were told that they didn’t have any trouble with security round these parts. Well maybe not, but we could have easily been a couple of burglars down from the north in search of a change of scene, had she thought about that?. And why a key for the bathroom?, which we were told to lock as we left.
“Surely you lock it when you go in!”, Terry pointed out, not unreasonably. So, to sum up, she didn’t mind you having no security whatsoever in your room, but was panic stricken in case somebody broke in and wanted to have a bath, - or worse!.
She then inquired if we were “running”, this must have been the local term for taking part in the bottle kicking, as we had been asked the same question in the village earlier on, and weren’t really sure what they meant.
“I’m not” I said, almost apologetically, “but he is”, pointing to my chum.
She observed him as if he had just broken wind on her new sofa, and before she had chance to speak Terry said mournfully,
“Don’t look at me like that, - it scares me half to death!”, a rather strange remark to someone you’ve just met I thought.
We just had time for a quick shower, I noticed that I’d under loaded my toilet bag and shouted over,
“You got any shampoo?”, back came the reply,
“Use soap, - same stuff, different label”. Right you are.

It was now about tea time, so we thought we’d head back to Hallaton and get a bite to eat, we guessed it must be at least a couple of miles so I zipped up my jacket and Terry buttoned up his cardigan. It had stopped snowing but it was still freezing. After about an hour we conceded that it might be a bit further than a couple of miles, we suddenly weren’t sure if we were going the right way, there were so many little winding roads adorned with countless signposts for villages we’d never heard of. Places like Horninghold, Blaston, Stockerston, Welham, Langton, East Langton, Church Langton, Slawston, Glooston, Stonton Wyville and Eye Brook Resevoir. We’d not caught sight of another human being or vehicle on the roads even, just mile upon mile of moor, gorse bushes and the odd cow. Farm animals round these parts obviously weren’t used to seeing human beings close up and would first stare, and then rush towards us thinking we were the farmer with per chance a pocket full of hay, this became a re occurring theme. We became increasingly desperate recalling landmarks that we were sure we’d passed earlier.
“I recognise that church!, the one with the big bell on it!”, I volunteered hopefully.
“So that means that Hallaton’s just round the corner”. I think we walked another forty five minutes after that.
“What about that broken blade of grass there, you can’t tell me you don’t remember that!”. I think we were experiencing a mirage or something similar, the cold was getting into our bones, and we were very thirsty.

Red nosed and blue cheeked we joyously entered The Bewicke Arms and ordered a couple of pints of I.P.A bitter, I located the money in my pocket but couldn’t grip such was the numb feeling in my fingers. You know, like one of those rip off crane things that you get in amusement arcades whereby you manage to locate the teddy bears head snugly in the jaws, but when it comes to actually lifting the thing up it suddenly loses the will to live at the critical moment, and you’re left swearing and shaking your fist at the glass.
By now we were pretty damned hungry, and after a few inquiries realized to our horror that there was nowhere to eat, not in the pub, not a café, or a chip shop, nothing. We’d have to travel at least five miles for the merest smell of something warm. So it was decided to have another pint, - (Caudles bitter this time, a very “woody” tang we thought and an acquired taste,- and we certainly acquired it), and a packet of salted nuts to fend off starvation.

Having warmed up considerably we decided to check out the one other pub in the village, The Fox Inn, we were given directions whilst at the same time being urged to return later. The character in question mentioned that there was a female singer on later and judging by his actions, she either had a chronic shoulder problem or overly large breasts. (it transpired there was nothing wrong with her shoulders).
We knew the village was tiny so it couldn’t be far and kept heading for the nearest lit up window. However we were stopped dead in our tracks every time, as, obviously they don’t draw their curtains round these parts, and were always greeted by the sight of some be-slippered householder sat down watching the telly or sipping from a mug.
The Fox Inn had somewhat younger clientele, student types, and we ushered our pints of Black Sheep bitter over to a prime spot in the corner next to a roaring log fire. It had only been a short walk, but we were freezing again and the crackles and pops of the spitting flames cheered us as we lazed back into our seats wringing our hands triumphantly.
“I think we’ve copped on a gud un ere boy”, Terry had really fallen for Hallaton. We always call each other “boy”, it stems from when we first met at Pontin’s Holiday camp in Devon in 86. Terry was the lifeguard and I was on the entertainments team – blue coats we were called. We used to meet in Terry’s hut by the pool for a cuppa or the odd tin of lager, he’d have the radio on and would be listening to “Steve Wright in the afternoon”. There was an imaginary character on there called Sid the manager and he’d always come on the phone line and shout “Hello boy!”. We nicked it and have been using it ever since. Another thing is that we never call him Terry, if it’s not “boy”, then it’s “Tel”, this is a very cockney thing of course but we had a few of those at Pontin’s, they all called him that, he liked it, and that stuck as well.
By now we were feeling very cosy indeed and all we could think about was trying to ensure that we didn’t have to walk all the way back again later on. We’d had the good sense to snap up the business card of “Big Dave”, Hallaton’s only taxi driver which was thrust at us by the ever helpful Sally earlier. We phoned him, only to discover that, on this, his busiest weekend of the year, he was laid up in bed with the flu – oh shit!. He said that there might be a couple of taxi’s lurking around from outside the town, but he couldn’t do anything for us. That’s it, we were snookered, and as we chuntered our way back to The Buicke Arms we realised that a taxi wouldn’t have been much good to us anyway, as, in our semi inebriated state, we couldn’t for the life of us remember the name of our bed and breakfast. We remembered the word “Grange”, but that was about it, so you could just imagine the conversation with an out of town taxi driver, say, from Bradford, as we frantically plucked out names at random and gave some half arsed directions. No, we’d be better off walking, but we’d need some more anti freeze down our necks first.

The Buike (see, we’re on first name terms already) had filled up substantially since we had left and the aforementioned lady accordionist was in full swing, so to speak. There was another guy who also played the accordion, and a girl who was sat with them who was playing one of those over size tambourine things, you know, the thing you play with an over sized cotton bud thing. I’m not sure if she was with the band or just a customer who felt the urge to join in, it was a bit like that, very informal and pleasing on the ear. No microphones or sound system or anything, just all very folkey and we sang along with odd song that we knew – there were mainly Irish songs – probably because they came from Ireland. There was a lovely laid back atmosphere in there, and after a few more pints of Caudles bitter and a few ignored hints for a lift, off we went once more into the breach, “I’m going outside now, I might be some time” came to mind.

We were lucky as it happened, the temperature was still sub zero but there wasn’t a breath of wind, the snow has ceased and it was a cloudless sky with a full moon, which meant we could actually see where we were going. The thought of scrabbling about in the pitch black had worried us somewhat, so much so that Terry had brought with him his pump action torch (no batteries required). He’s very proud of this piece of equipment and had given a practical demonstration to Sally earlier on in our bedroom, she had looked suitably impressed.
It took us a bit longer to walk back than it had to walk to Hallaton, this was probably due to the fact that it was mainly up hill, we were meandering rather than walking, and having to stop every ten minutes to water the grass verge didn’t help. The journey flew however in a haze of beer fumes and excited chatter, and we were gob smacked to find that it was about half past two as we strode up the long driveway to Medbourne Grange, (we’d set off about midnight).
We made a conscious effort to keep the noise down as we crept upstairs and up to our room, communicating with a series of grunts and finger pointing and we congratulated each other on resisting the temptation to climb aboard the authentic Victorian looking wooden rocking horse in the hallway.
The long hike and our new found love for Caudles bitter ensured that getting to sleep didn’t present a huge problem and Terry was dutifully snoring before I had chance to get my boots off.
The next thing I remember was the tell tale dull ache of the bladder at round about six o’clock, and as I tossed the duvet to one side, I felt a heavy lump in the front of my pants. This was not usual. This turned out to be my mobile phone!. It suddenly came back to me that I’d set my alarm so we didn’t miss breakfast, and as I’d had to insert my trusty earplugs to counter the rasping beside me, thinking that I would now no longer be able to hear it, I’d placed it in my undercrackers, presumably thinking that the vibration from the alarm against my genitals would buzz me back into the land of the living.

The breakfast was very good, we had the full “English” fry up of bacon, egg, sausage, tomato etc, I never normally eat fried food, but once I’ve had a few pints inside me my palate changes and I actually enjoy something that I’d normally turn my nose up at. There was toast and homemade marmalade and jams to follow, to be applied with a teaspoon – always adds a touch of class, the teaspoon, and a coffee percolator. I think that’s what it was at least, I’m not sure I’ve ever come across one in the flesh before but Terry impressed me hugely when, instead of staring at it as if it were a museum exhibit, like me, he pushed the plunger down as if it were normal practice. Coffee came out of it at any rate, and that’s the main thing.
As we bade farewell to Sally, Terry shouted,
“Come quick, there’s a donkey in your garden luv”, our host scuttled through from her living room only to see her well fed Golden Retriever gently lapping water from it’s bowl.

By 10 o’clock we’d driven back into Hallaton and as the police had closed off the village to traffic we had to park up about a mile away, after trying and failing to park in the official car park which was a waterlogged field, thoughtfully placed on top of a hill. The weather was once again bitter so we thought we’d go to the tea rooms for a cuppa, but they’d taken all the seating out, obviously fearing rioting pensioners, so we stood outside by the beer tent and consulted the official pamphlet. Although they were already serving alcohol, it was locals only inside the pub so we hung about in the car park not really sure what to do.
Neither of us were drinking today, Terry had to drive home at tea time, I don’t like boozing solo, and besides, it was too cold to grip a plastic pint pot.

From across the road the peal of bells of the church of St. Michael and All Angels announced the traditional bottle kicking service, the head of the parade who was the Warrener (game keeper) was looking resplendent in a long green velvet medieval costume and hat, in days gone by he would have held a real hare skewered on a stick, but, in these politically correct times he now carries a long staff with a bronze sculptured hare on the top. Also in period costume stands the bread lady carrying a basket of “penny loaves”. Next to these two on the church steps in a very authentic yellow, late nineties costume is a young man dressed as a Teletubby…….what the?. Obviously another custom passed down through the centuries. There had been a children’s parade earlier and one presumes he was a leftover from that.

Several local people had inquired after our health, and seemingly everybody was aware of our long walk home the night before. One of these, who we took to be the landlord of The Bewike Arms told us of the policy to keep out outsiders from entering the pub,- (presumably so he still had a pub to go to the next day) but promised to give the staff “the nod” if we wanted to go in. We would surely take advantage of this offer, as standing about in a freezing car park had limited appeal.
We then went for a stroll around the museum, this took approximately forty five seconds of our time, it seemed to be a converted station master’s hut from the days when the village boasted a railway line. There were a couple of rusty old shovels, an oil lamp or two and a glass case with a stuffed Hare on a stick and other memorabilia of Hallaton’s most famous shindig.
After a failed attempt to enter the warmth and sanctuary that was the pub, we were eventually verified by our pal and allowed in. It was bliss. It was crowded to capacity, there was laughter and jollity, and our accordion friends were back again. We soaked up the atmosphere, weakened and had one last pint of Caudles bitter, and chatted with a couple of locals before squeezing out into the fresh air.
On our way out we saw Hare pie and the “penny loaves” being flung into a now substantial crowd, this practice, according to my pamphlet, originally was in order to feed the poor and needy of the parish, but these days, from what I saw later, are to be used as missiles.
The procession then headed for the village green, with, has tradition decrees three young men of the village holding the “bottles” up at the front. The term bottle is actually misleading, for they are not bottles at all but small wooden beer barrels holding about seven pints of beer each, and they are held aloft in one hand above the head. After another small ceremony at the strange conical monument known as the buttercross we then joined the parade up to the The Fox Inn. Here there is another pit stop, but nothing significant happened, we just seemed to be picking up the stragglers from the other end of the village and many headed for the beer tent. After a few minutes the band regrouped, the villagers fell in behind them, and off we went again.
The one thing which made us feel uncomfortable was that the band were actually a Scottish pipe band, all kilted and booted up for the occasion. This puzzled and annoyed in equal measures, and there were a few murmurings. I mean, could you imagine some ancient annual custom up in the Scottish Highlands with a few manic Morris dancers at the head of the parade, leaping up and down, waving their hanky’s and jangling their bells to the tune of “My Old Man’s A Dustman”. No, I thought not. Generations ago Hallaton had it’s own marching brass band, and obviously this has long since disbanded, but, quite frankly, a couple of blokes up front playing the spoons and washboard would have been preferable.

Terry now handed me his valuables, much as you did just before a scrap in the school playground, and once again we joined the parade on it’s last leg up towards Hare Pie Hill.
The thing that struck me was the respect that everybody gave to the whole procedure, and in the ever growing group there was almost silence, no shouting or larking about and as we headed up the final hill to the pitch (or killing fields, if you will), you could really feel as you were going into battle.
As the band reached the top of the lane we could see hundreds of people gathered in a field, and dozens more halfway up trees and hanging off of branches for a better view. I soon realized why. I was expecting some sort lull in proceedings while the two gangs of villagers sized each other up and jogged on the spot, and then a whistle or something. But no. No sooner had we turned the corner, I looked up to see what looked to be small rocks (probably bread rolls) being hurled, with some force, into the group where I was stood. This induced boos and general aggravation, and reminded me of those archers arrows that you would see fired in their thousands as a precursor to some huge battle in “The Gladiator” or “El Cid”. When a full tin of Fosters cart wheeled into the heavy dark sky, spraying out it’s froth like a Catherine wheel, it seemed to signal the frenzy that was like a huge rugby scrum with no referee. Terry shot off in the blink of an eye into the mass of arms, legs and bobbing heads, and I wondered if I’d ever see him again. It was only later that I found out that the tin of lager was coincidental and a chap throws the barrel up twice at the top of a field, and on the third time, as it hits the ground, this signals “the off”.
I took out my camera and tried everything to get a decent shot, but it was hopeless, apart from all those burrowing, straining and striving to get a hand on the barrel, there were all the spectators swarming around jumping up and down or on tip toes hoping to get a glimpse of something. If they managed it was more than I did, and I retreated to try and find a better vantage point, say from the brow of a hill or an air balloon.
The scrum ever so slowly, and with series of sudden breakaways made it’s way down the hill. The aim is to bring the “bottle” back towards your own village, in both directions the goal line is a stream. It struck me that Hallaton had a few things in their favour, firstly the hill back toward their village was shorter and steeper, and secondly, Medbourne – the other village would have to force their through two gorse bushes (flanked by barbed wire) before they even started the ascent to their stream. It’s hardly surprising therefore, that throughout the recorded history of this event Hallaton have dominated, save for a period after the second world war when the local Jocks from the nearby steelworks at Corby helped Medbourne out and enjoyed a stint of success, on and off for 30 years.
Nobody actually knows how long this ritual has been going on, some of the earliest records from the eighteenth century describe it as “an ancient custom” even then, and many stories abound of participant characters up and down the years. This is an extract from the official booklet by John Morison.

“A Hallaton man named Tommy Tyler was a spectator down by the brook. Ascending the steep bank was too difficult for him as he had a wooden leg. Alas he was caught up in the scrum and was tumbled into the brook, then in full spate. The buoyancy of his wooden leg and the strong current proved too much for him and he was carried off downstream and had to be rescued by others”. Beside this is a photograph of the man himself sat outside his house complete with Long John Silver type wooden leg in 1900.

Getting some decent photos was proving nigh on impossible, and try as I might, as soon as I got near to the action I was bundled to one side or was forced into retreat as the scrum suddenly changed direction and swirled towards me. Moving quickly was becoming increasingly more difficult, partly due to the cold eating into the legs, but mainly due to the thick layer of mud and dung that stuck tight to the soles of my boots. For the first time though I caught sight of Terry’s cardigan, and it flapped in his wake as he waved his arms directing the younger recruits here and there, covering any likely counter offensive and burrowing forward, head down when the drive was on. It was now too that I spied “Laa-Laa” our Teletubby friend, somewhat surprisingly getting stuck in with the best of them, his pristine yellow outfit now deeply skidded in brown. I would have liked to have seen the woman face in the fancy dress shop when he sheepishly handed that costume back in.
A few casualties now were evident on the hill, The Hallaton charge was in full flow and a young Medbourne foot soldier sat on the grass blinking his eyes and cradling his front upper false teeth in his palm. A few yards further down, another youngster, shoulders heaving with exhaustion, his rugby shirt in tatters was refusing a sip of beer from a sympathetic bystander, and all in all the first “goal” looked imminent.
The blizzard took hold again, and the thought crossed my mind that the best place to be would be down by the stream, the thought of the battle raging in and around the swamp at the bottom of the hill had me reaching for my camera once more. We were however robbed of this spectacle when a sudden breakaway by a solitary individual, sneakily, first casually idling out of the scrum with the “bottle” at his side, and then sprinting down the hill, flamboyantly raising one arm and pointing one finger into the air, much in the style of Steve Ovett all those years ago. One nil!.

Terry didn’t look any the worse for wear and had clearly enjoyed the experience. We presumed that now, we’d all troop back up the hill and start all over again, so we waited, and waited,…….and waited. Everybody sauntered off towards the beer tent which also housed a rather odd ball band of musicians who went in for rhythmical shouting rather than the more traditional approach of singing, We had seen them set up earlier, we hadn’t seen any instruments as such, apart that is apart from some strange long sticks with bells and a hob nailed boot attached to the bottom! – sort of punk rock Morris dancers. They were all dressed as pirates, all long hair, frilly shirts and buckled boots. They had been playing all the while the bottle kicking had been going on, their tunes intermittently penetrating the inclement weather and toward our reluctant ears. The only tune I could actually recognise was “Lets twist again” by Chubby Checker (except they sang “Lets get pissed again, like we did last summer”).
We hung about for well over an hour waiting for something to happen, both with enthusiasm ebbing away. We didn’t really know what to do now, we could hardly try and get back in the pub, what with Terry looking like a motorcross rider, and anyway we weren’t drinking today.
Eventually we reluctantly decided to call it a day, as nobody seemed remotely interested in resuming hostilities, and anyway I had a liaison with Nigel at a pub just off the M1.
We tore ourselves off of the hill and back to the van, this was indeed an unsatisfactory conclusion, we didn’t even know the final score for goodness sake, - had Terry been part of a victorious team or what?!.
This also meant that we missed the celebrations. The winning team traditionally gather round the buttercross in Hallaton, (even if Medbourne win) and the man who won the first “bottle” is hoisted to the top of the ancient monument, balancing precariously on the stone ball holding aloft the miniature beer barrel. It is then ceremoniously uncorked, and he takes a slug of the now flat, and warm brew. I say he, and although this is a male dominated event, it’s an interesting fact that during the first world war it was the women of the two villages who carried on the tradition while the men folk were away fighting.
We found the pub, eventually, where I’d previously agreed to meet Nigel who had kindly agreed to put me up for the night before I was due to fly back the next morning. We decided to bob in for a pint while we waited for him.
“Hang on a minute, look at the state of you, I hope they’ve got a tap room, I think I’ve got a pair of tracksuit bottoms in my case you can borrow”. This was ignored. Terry simply kicked off his still wet and caked in mud work boots off in the foyer. We marched into the restaurant and ordered a couple of pints of Guiness, Terry sat on a leather sofa in his stocking feet, spattered in mud and stinking of sheep shit.
As he regaled Nigel with his story of how a bloke in the middle of the scrum, “bottle” in hand, and whilst going on a surging run, reached behind him into his rucksack, produced a can of beer and poured it down his neck whilst battling on one handed. And of the huge drunken guffaw that went up as a solitary sodden training shoe was launched into orbit, whilst the owner hopped out of the melee cursing.
As we both excitedly recalled our short time in Hallaton, we suddenly realized what a great time we’d had, we’d made one fatal error however, and that was not stopping on for another night, and therefore seeing the thing through properly. I think it goes without saying that we’ll have to return one day.
It later transpired that Hallaton won 2-0.